Guinea pigs make fabulous pets. Best kept in same sex pairs, guinea pigs are wonderful friends. Their adorable chubby bodies are wonderful to snuggle up on your lap, share some salad with you or just let them loose in a safe enclosure outside and watch them jump and play!
Personable and curious, they enjoy human company and you’ll often hear them wheeking or whistling to you when they see you come into the room.
Below you’ll find a load of information on guinea pigs, how to care for them, medicines and treatments and more. Feel free to join the free forums and talk with others who own guinea pigs, show off yours and even get advice if you need it. My carefully picked team of moderators are there to give you excellent advice should you need it! ©
- Starter kit for you guinea pig
- Toys for your guinea pig.
- Contents of your guinea pig medicine cabinet.
- Common skin aliments for guinea pigs .
- Helping small caged animals with chest congestion.
- Topical treatment for mange mites
- Keep your guinea pig’s nails neat and trimmed.
- Your Outdoor Guinea Pig.
- Food safety chart for Guinea Pigs
~ by Gina Secrist ©
A very common question is "What kind of toys do guinea pigs like to play with?" All piggies like different types of toys, but some successful ideas have been:
1) A balled up piece of blank computer paper. (Anything colored may contain harmful dyes).
2) Empty toilet paper rolls or paper towel tubes. Many pigs love to gnaw on these, carry them around the cage, etc.
3) Same as number 2, but with a slit up the side and stuffed with hay.
4) Bird toys. Some like them to hang from their cages in various spots. Other guinea pigs prefer them laying on the floor of the cage so that they can pick them up and shake them all about.
5) Ping Pong balls, tennis balls, ferret balls (or cat balls that don't have small parts that can be chewed through and swallowed). Some piggies enjoy nudging these around their cages.
6) Ferret hammocks and ferret sleeping bags. You can buy these any pet store that sells ferret supplies, or you can make your own.
7) Stuffed animals.
8) Empty old sock. Some cavies like to drag one around the cage with them.
9) Old sock stuffed with hay.
10) Large Chubes are fun for them to run through and chew.
11) Hidey Houses are great to run through and climb upon.
12) Pieces of PVC pipe for them to climb through, hide in, climb on, etc.
13) Large piles of hay to hide in, sleep in, and of course EAT!
14) Cinder blocks make great hiding places AND keep them cooler in the summer.
15) The largest size plastic Igloo ("Pigloos," if you will) sold by pet stores.
16) Large "Fiddle Sticks" sold by pet stores make great hiding places.
17) Empty brown paper bags make great hiding places as well as something fun to chew on.
18) Empty cardboard boxes. Larger ones make great "houses," and smaller ones filled with a few food pellets make great "rattles" for your piggie to toss about.
19) Cuddle Cups can be found at most pet stores and make great "beds" for your guinea pigs.
20) Mirrors. Some guinea pigs like to look at their own reflections.
21) Towels/blankets draped strategically around the cage can create fun "caverns" for them to hide/play in.
22) Wooden toys such as alphabet blocks, wooden spoons, etc.
NEVER buy a wheel or exercise ball for your guinea pig. They can result in spinal problems for your cavy.
~ by Gina Secrist ©
Contents of a Guinea Pig Medicine Cabinet should include:
• Critical Care by Oxbow. This keeps in your freezer and is great for when your piggie stops eating. Most exotic vets will sell you a package of this if you tell them you just want to keep it on hand for emergencies, or you can order it off Oxbow’s website.
• Assorted sizes of syringes or eyedroppers for feeding medicines and Critical Care.
• Pedialite or Dioralyte. This is a great energy/nutrient booster for very ill piggies.
• Children`s Liquid Sudafed. Dose 0.4ml Daily ( Can be split in to two doses) and can be used safely with other medications.
• Vick's Vapor Rub. Again, this is helpful for congested piggies. It is also useful to revive sickly critters suffering from heat stroke, etc.
• Styptic Powder or Corn Starch or Flour. This can be applied if you cut the quick of your piggie's nail, or for other bleeding surface wounds inflicted to your guinea pig.
• Nail Clippers. I prefer guillotine style, but many people use human nail clippers.
• Mineral Oil or Vaseline. This is used to assist in cleaning boar's perineal sacs.
• Infant Gas Relief Drops (Simethicone). This helps relieve pain in a bloated guinea pig.
• Ear Cleansing Solution. This can be picked up at any vet. It is great for removing debris in ears. It’s also great for when your piggie accidentally gets water splashed in his ear during a bath.
• Neosporin or equivalent. This can be used for small surface wounds on your piggie – wipe off excess amount so your piggie does not ingest any.
• Probiotics. These are recommended to give your cavy after it has been on antibiotics for awhile.
• Vitamin C. Just like in humans, extra Vitamin C should be given when your piggie is sick. The liquid form may be administered with a syringe/dropper, children’s chewables may simply be eaten by your guinea pig, or adult tablets may be disintegrated in water. Be careful when adding vitamins to water, as they only remain effective up to 8 hours.
Others items most people have in their own medicine cabinets or around the house:
• Old towels / blankets
• Cotton Swabs / Cotton Balls / Gauze pads
• Saline Solution
• Sterile Water
Remember, NEVER self medicate without the prior approval and examination by a veterinarian. The above is an emergency kit like the one you keep for humans. Nothing can replace the expertise of a veterinarian and Wanda’s Pet World does not endorse you play veterinarian.
Feel free to join our forums for more discussion on your guinea pig medicine cabinet.
Another good item to keep in here is Arrowroot powder. It comes in powder form and it should be mixed according to the instructions on the packet.
It is excellent for upset tummies where the patient isn`t eating a proper diet. ...It is a mild and easily digested natural food source.
After making up as directed....offer an appropriate amount....eg...
Cupful..Dog
Dessert spoonful.....Rat
Teaspoonful....Hamster
~ added by: Jill Barker
Ear Mites
Look for: Scratching; Shaking the head; Dirty or Reddish-brown ear wax; flaky, scabby sores
Treatment: Vet will prescribe Ivermection injections or a topical/otic solution.
Fungus:
(Ringworm)
Look for: Hair loss usually beginning around the face; scaly skin; crusty clumps of hair that pull out easily; may appear in multiple spots also on back and legs
Can be transmitted / transferred to other pets and humans
Treatment: A skin scraping by a veterinarian is often used to identify a fungus microscopically. Your vet will recommend you to quarantine the infected animal and prescribe medication which could include:
Shampoo
Creams
Ointments
Disinfect the area where your guinea pig lives and all his toys and change the bedding often. Any humans who come in contact with a ringworm infected pig needs to wash his or her hands immediately after and be very careful not to touch your face or any other pet or human.
~ by Jill Barker ©
MITES :
Cheyletiella / walking dandruff
Treat with IVERMECTIN ( Ivomec ) from vet.
Treat topically with one spot to back of neck at weekly intervals for 3 weeks.
In UK... BEAPHAR SPOT ON can be bought over the counter and contains Ivermectin.
XENEX can be bought over the counter too and has had excellent results. Dose the same as Ivomec.
Shampoos : Selsun, Alphosol, Prioderm, Head`n`Shoulders, Vosene....
These will help if you cannot get to a vet or the medication but obviously don`t bathe while using the spot on meds.
Do not use on piggies less than 6 months old.
Homemade GENTLE recipe for mites...
1Pint warm/tepid water
1Tablespoon Witch Hazel
1Tablespoon Listerine ( plain)
Mix and apply with spray or cloth and clean cage/toys with solution also.
LICE :
Shampoo in LYCLEAR or SELSUN or any child safe `lice` shampoo.
FUNGAL :
Not usual but can occur as ringworm. Skin will be red and irratated. A gentle `tug` on the hair may
come away in a `clump` with like dandruff attached.
PLEASE SEE YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY.
Vet will probably advise a fungal dip with tablets to take.
Immediate action you can do beforehand.....bathe piggy in NIZORAL or VETSECT REPEL SHAMPOO.
CANESTAN cream may relieve irritation.
Take great care with hygiene. Wash hands thoroughly and change shirt or wear apron while dealing with patient. Remove after nursing and keep in same room for next visit.
Ringworm will spread so safeguard yourself and other piggies and pets.
BITE WOUNDS:
Bathe in saline solution ( Salt and water )
1 Teaspoon salt to 1 pint cooled boiled water.
Diet and cleanliness play a big part in keeping your piggies` skin healthy.
Plenty of fresh meadow hay, fresh grass and dandelions, green vegetables and salad leaves, herbs. The odd piece of fruit will be liked but give in very moderate amounts . Fruits are very acidic and can cause `sores` around the mouth.
A good quality dry mix containing at least 15% protein with added vitamin `C` should be available at all times with fresh , clean water.
The hutch or cage should be cleaned out 2 or 3 times a week, washed and disinfected with a good pet safe disinfectant or a 50/50 solution of vinegar/water.
~ by Jill Barker ©
Many small animals are prone to respiratory problems and a great way of easing any congestion is by steaming (Vaporizing ) It helps to clear the airways and helps to keep your pet comfortable.
It does not interfere with any other medications.
If you own a steamer ( vaporizer) then use it...If not....Add a `dab` of Vick's mentholated rub to a bowl of steaming water placed near the cage but out of reach of naughty paws, especially ratties !
In severe cases you can place the bowl beside the cage and cover both bowl and cage with an old towel. This allows all the vapor to be inhaled. If using this method, steam for 20 minutes and if pet feels `damp` cuddle in a warm, dry towel.
Vick's is safe, tried and tested. However, if you feel any doubts, the steam itself will do the trick. Some people use a `drop` of Oil of Olbas but Vick's is much more gentle and that is the one I have always used with good results.
*Please note that you should NEVER take a short cut and simply put a bit of Vick’s or ANY mentholated ointment or drops on any animals skin or under their nose. This can cause serious skin or sinus irritation and do some respiratory damage as well due to the medication being full strength. By using the above methond you are diluting and using the product correctly and should not cause damage. Please don’t take any short cuts and follow the directions carefully.
At present in UK, as a general rule, our vets don`t use injections to treat mites etc. on small animals.
Mostly used is a TOPICAL solution or SPOT ON dose on the back of the neck repeated twice more at 7 day intervals, making a total of 3 doses in 3 weeks.
In any case where a topical treatment isn`t recommended , an oral dose can usually be given.
Many problems have been reported from giving injections, especially of Ivermectin ( Avermectin group) which can prove dangerous if overdosed.
Reactions relating to the actual injection site have been reported also.
There is now a new TOPICAL treatment called Dermisil which treats cheyletiella, sarcoptic and demodectic mange mites on dogs, cats and small animals.
In the case of any worries, it is always wise to consult your own vet.
Feel free to join our forums for more discussions on the different treatments between other countries for mange mites and guinea pigs.
~ by Jill Barker ©
~ by Gina Secrist ©
Keeping your cavy’s nails neat and trimmed is essential to good health and grooming. This is not all that difficult to do and once you start a trimming routine as a youngster, it will be easy with every trim. The suggested time frame to trim nails is once a month.
Holding your piggy in a secure position make sure you get a good hold on its foot without stressing or forcing. Remember, this will be a very wriggly effort until your pet is used to this grooming routine! Be patient, it will get easier with time.
Make sure to cut just below the ‘quick’ of the nail (figure 1), or else you will cause bleeding. The quick is very easy to see on white nailed toes so you should have no problem discerning the quick from the nail to cut.
Black nails however, can be a bit more tricky. You can hold the cavy’s dark nail over a very bright light which will allow you to see the quick or you can simply trim a very small amount at a time more often.
An interesting note about quicks is that they will continually recede with frequent trimming. If the nails continue to stay too long, clipping them once weekly instead of monthly will force the quick to recede faster.
Just remember to have patience and start this important routine early and it will be easy on you and your guinea pig.
Your piggy can live very comfortably outdoors in a moderate climate if housed properly with good care and attention. Piggies love the scents and sounds of outdoors and benefit greatly from the hours of natural daylight.
The hutch should have a separate, covered-in sleeping compartment with a solid door where piggies can have rest and privacy , with an airy, spacious living area with a mesh door. All doors should have secure locks/bolts on them. Two piggies can live comfortably in a hutch 4` x 2` but the biggest you can manage is best. Good quality mesh should be used and not chicken wire which can be gnawed through easily. Covers are essential for night time , winter and severe weather.
The hutch should be solid and sturdy , built with tongue and groove wood or ship-lapped all around and raised on sturdy legs about 30 inches from the ground or waist level for easy cleaning , safety from predators and good air circulation. It should be well insulated with felt or polystyrene to keep piggies warm in winter, cool in summer. The wood should be treated with animal friendly weatherproof coating available from most DIY stores.
Ideally , it should be situated with its back to a solid fence or wall with shade in summer. It is very wise to build a very sturdy floor and roof to help guard against the weather and predators like wild rats, cats or foxes. Rats can gnaw through a floor or back of a hutch which isn`t sturdily built and well maintained.
A well felted roof gives extra warmth and protection against the elements and an apex roof with good overlap front and back works very well to shelter the inhabitants from rain and bad weather. It is a good idea too to cover the floor with tiles or linoleum for easy cleaning and disinfecting. You can usually pick up some cheap odds and ends from any DIY store.
A good thick covering of newspapers can be placed on the floor covered by plenty of fresh hay for piggy to nibble and snuggle in. An extra layer of soft straw can be placed on top of the paper in winter for extra warmth and comfort , with the hay on top. This should be replaced and cleaned out every 3 days or so. Fleece, towels or vet bed can also be used if washed often.
A good sized water bottle should be attached to the mesh and kept clean and refilled. Care should be taken in winter to make sure the water hasn`t frozen. A cover or an old glove will prevent this. A bowl of good quality dry mix containing vitamin `c` should be available at all times with fresh vegetables daily. A little fruit is appreciated but not too much as it has a very high acid content and can cause problems eg...mouth sores.
Hay must be available at all times. it is nutritious , aids digestion and keeps teeth in excellent order.
Alfalfa hay can be given to youngsters under 6 months but not older piggies as it is very rich in calcium.
Fresh Meadow Grass hay and Timothy hay are perfect for all piggies.
Dried oats and some crumbled weetabix or bran can be added to the dry mix for extra warmth in winter.
Sheds can also be used for accommodation if built to the same specifications as the hutches, treated with animal friendly weather proof coating and raised slightly off the ground to guard against the damp. An opening window is desirable (with a lock) and a bolt on the door too.
Sheds may protect in winter but can become very hot in summer. Therefore, the doors and windows should be open all day and a mesh screen will guard against flies and insects. A less substantial hutch can be situated inside or a purpose built unit within the shed itself makes a great home.
Power outlaid to the shed is a great advantage to provide light or heat and a fan to keep the air circulating in summer. Remember that warm, damp, dark places are ideal breeding grounds for bacteria or fungi.
I have pots of lavender beside all my hutches which smell heavenly and deter flies in summer. I also welcome any spiders who want to share the hutch/shed to catch any flies who dare enter !!
If housed this way , piggies will appreciate a nice large run for the summer months when the grass is dry. don`t put piggies out on damp grass because it can cause a chill.
The ideal run should be as big as you can manage. 6` x 4` is a really nice size and piggies can run around to their hearts content.
The run should be :
a) Made from good strong quality mesh and not chicken wire.
b) Have a removable top
c) Have one end shaded or hideaways and shelters within.
d) Have a water bottle attached
e) Be placed on safe grass.....not contaminated by pesticides or other animals.
Lastly, but by no means least, your outdoor piggy needs your time, attention, love and the company of fellow piggies for comfort and warmth. Talk, play, cuddle and love your piggies as much as possible.....You will be rewarded 10,000 fold.
~ by Jill Barker ©
You are obviously going to need a few things before you bring your new friend home. It’s best to start out with a nice roomy cage. I would recommend getting the biggest you can afford at the time. Many experienced guinea pig owners like to make their own cages out of many different materials. But for your first pig I would stick with the store bought kind until you know what you are doing 100%.
Water bottles: Again bigger is better here. Guinea pigs can drink allot of water in a day and they should always have fresh clean water handy. I would get the kind you can hang on the outside of the cage and put the spout through the cage to the inside.
Houses: A wide variety is available for housing you little pig. Anything from plastic ‘pigloos’ to cardboard, wooden houses. You can get pretty creative here as well with things around the house. Just make sure it’s ‘cozy’. Guinea pigs like to feel like they have a place to ‘hide’ in when they need it. If your pig is a chewer, I would recommend houses made of paper based or wood based materials . I don’t like plastic for the fact that it can be ingested if chewed and cause harm to any pet.
Bedding: Paper based bedding like CareFresh is ideal. Other types are Aspen wood shaving and pelleted.
Food: Start with a nice high quality pellet, timothy hay and some fresh fruits and veggies.
Food Dishes: Guinea pigs will need two bowls. One for pellets and one for fresh foods you give daily. I recommend a heavy ceramic or crock type bowl that cannot be tipped over. Stay away from plastic or anything that is heavily painted. Guinea pigs sometimes chew their bowls and you don’t want them eating paint!
Hay Rack: You will need a small animal hayrack that you can hang on the cage wall for your pig. They need a constant supply of hay and the recommend type of hay is Timothy Hay. Make sure any hay given is not moldy or wet or dry and dusty. Moldy hay is dangerous to all animals as well as overly dusty hay.
Toys and Grooming: You will need a brush to groom your pig if he is long-haired. Long-haired guinea pigs need daily grooming. Wooden toys, toys that wobble and make noise are wonderful as they can chew them and maintain teeth. Stay away from plastic and items with allot of paint. Timothy hay helps maintain teeth but wooden chew toys are an added benefit.
* Keep in mind that any items that are chewable will be chewed so choosing your items carefully is a must. It has been known that some animals have had problems with plastic and ingesting the small chewed off bits. If you see your guinea pig or any other small caged animal chewing too aggressively and it concerns you, take the plastic out, especially the chewed off bits and either replace these things often or find wood or safer items like paper or cardboard to give them.
~ by Joan A Walker ©
~ by Joan A Walker ©
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