Rabbits aren't just creatures in a hutch out in the back yard any more, they have become suitable as free roaming house pets. Rabbits can be trained to use a litter box, they’ll seek out human affection, and are lovely house pets.
Rabbits come in a variety of specialty breeds, ears up or floppy and also there are many mixed breed bunnies as well.
They can live singly or in pairs or more. It is not uncommon for those who keep rabbits as pets to have them spayed or neutered which can greatly improve their life as well as yours.!
Do join the free forums and chat about rabbits as pets, show off your rabbit or ask more about keeping them if you’re interested in one for yourself.
Corticosteroids (cortisone-like drugs) - should be avoided if possible, because rabbits may be especially sensitive to the immunosuppressive qualities of these drugs, and their use may cause further complications
Parasitic medications - oxibendazole, fenbendazole, albendazole are safe to use.
Rabbits don’t generally have a problem with parasites thus making these medications safe to use, albeit unnecessary as the problem does not exist.
Some veterinarians feel anti-nausea drugs, like diphenhydramine or meclizine, are useful in the rolling rabbit or one who is not eating.
There is much more on safe and unsafe medications for rabbits but they are more on a symptom to symptom or ailment to ailment basis. You should check the FREE forums for this kind of information by people who are experienced at keeping rabbits as pets.
Starter Kit for your Rabbit:
Cage - Wen it comes to cages, bigger is better. Make sure the rabbit’s home has a nice ‘hidey’ place for them to get some privacy, some toys and again, plenty of room. You can figure that a full grown rabbit will need about 6 times the amount of space as it’s body size.
Bedding - You may not even need bedding after your rabbit is litterbox trained, but any surface that is cold, hard, or plastic is going to need a covering. A paper-based bedding such as Carefresh works best and kiln dried unscented Aspen Shavings will make a good substitute. An indoor-outdoor rug that can be switched out and washed is good to cover a floor inside a play area. If using a cage with a wire floor, please find something like a washable piece of plexiglass to cover the grating. It’s quite uncomfortable for any animal to stand on wire grating all day long with no relief in sight!
Wood will work but it can become very smelly as it absorbs urine much more easily than plexiglass.
Water Bottle - Keep fresh water for your rabbit at all times. Make sure you fasten your water bottles down securely as rabbits do like to play with them and bash them about! The bottle size? Bigger is always better and change the water daily!
Food Bowls - One for pellets, one for veggies - heavy crocks or kennel cups that attached to the side or no-tip dog bowls. Rabbits will find their food bowls a source of amusement and turn them into a play thing. So heavy, sturdy and non-tippable is best!
Hayrack - If you hang a rack, make sure it is at a comfortable level. There are several racks made commercially - the wire ones are best. Keep fresh hay available at all times for your rabbit.
Food - Rabbits will need unlimited Timothy Hay, rabbit pellets, and fresh vegetables daily. See the safe food chart for safe fresh foods for your rabbit. There are a wide variety of foods you can use as treats as well. Just be careful on the amount of sweets given. Leafy greens (see chart!) are best.
House - Whether inside a cage or in a pen, A rabbit is going to want a house or even a cat bed or cozy to sleep in. Even a box that he can fit into comfortably. Rabbits are prey animals, so they need a place that they feel they can hide and be safe even if they most times sleep flopped out on the floor with their head in the pellet dish.
Litterbox and Litter - Rabbits pee into the corner, so a box made with a high back or a tall bin will work just fine. Dust free litter is best and change the box often to keep it sanitary. Some people will tell you to change it every couple of days but frankly, the pee alone will stink and make a nasty mess! So, like cats, clean often!
Rabbits train easily if you start them from a young age and have lots of patience.
Toys - Rabbits love to push balls, shake rattles, toss plastic cups, chew on popsicle sticks and wooden spoons and apple twigs. There are a lot of toys made for rabbits to be found at pet stores, or you can go with baby toys or just found objects. The sky’s the limit and you should let your imagination run wild when it comes to toys! Just remember that you must use non toxic stuff or you can risk a very sick or dead bunny!
Grooming - Rabbits should be brushed or combed several times a week. A soft cat or dog brush will do for long haired rabbits and a rubber grooming mitt (found in equine supplies) is nice on short haired rabbit coats. Weekly treats of a small piece of pineapple or avocado provide enzymes to help break down any hair that is digested. Avoid commercial hair ball remedies as they can cause a very serious digestive unbalance and diarrhea.
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